Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Birding Arctic Norway

Day 1:
I arrived at Kirkenes airport in northern Norway on Thursday after a long journey from Zurich via Oslo. I had bought a book about birding in the Varanger area. The next morning, after picking up the rental car, I travelled to the Pasvik valley, south of Kirkenes, in the Taiga. It was about -14° C as we drove along the icy road toward our hotel.

As we passed an open area with tall birches, I spotted a bird at the top of one of them. Pulling over at the side of the road, I quickly identified it as a Northern Hawk Owl, the first lifer of the trip. It didn't seem bothered by the car at all, so I got out, crossed the road and started taking pictures. Because of the temperature, the owl's feathers were puffed up, making it look comically fat. It was one of the birds I wanted to see most on the trip, so I was excited.

Northern Hawk Owl
I then checked in at the Birk Husky B&B, a hotel recommended in the book. It had bird feeders, meaning I could look for Taiga species there. Unfortunately, none of the species I had hoped for showed, but I did go on a husky tour in the evening, which was a lot of fun.

Day 2:
I headed toward my next destination, the town of Vadso on the Varanger fjord. On the way I enjoyed seeing many reindeer, which despite being wild, are herded and slaughtered by the Sami people each fall, so some are marked with collars or colored markings. The pictures are from the way back to Kirkenes, where I stopped to photograph them.

Reindeer
Reindeer 
Reindeer
Reindeer
I stopped in Nesseby, a town with a beautiful church on the water, where I photographed Purple Sandpipers on the beach, a species that proved to be very common on the Varanger coast. 
Nesseby church
Purple sandpiper

After arriving in Vadso, I immediately went into the harbor and saw my first Steller's Eiders, a stunning duck that was common in Vadso, but extremely rare in Europe as a whole, with almost all of the population wintering in and around the Varanger fjord and breeding in the Russian tundra. There were about six close-by in the harbor and many more farther out in tight rafts. Other than that, there were many Long-tailed ducks in the harbor, a common bird which I saw at almost every location from then on.


Steller's Eiders
Steller's Eider
Steller's Eider



Day 3:

The next day, I planned to go to Vardo, stopping in Kiberg on the way. Before that, I went to Vadso harbor again. There was much better light for photographing the Steller's eiders, but they weren't quite as close as the day before. It was low tide, so many Purple sandpipers fed on the exposed rocks.

Hooded Crow - Hooded crows seem to be the most common bird in Varanger.
Steller's eider
Steller's eider
Steller's eider
Steller's eider
Steller's eider
Steller's and Common eider
Steller's eider
Steller's eider
Steller's eider 
Purple sandpiper 
I then started my journey east toward Vardo, and barely five minutes outside of Vadso, a huge White-tailed Sea Eagle flew past, cruising along the coast the opposite way of the car. I only saw my third lifer of the trip for a few seconds, but it was a majestic and awe-inspiring sight. According to the book, sea eagles were once rare in Varanger but have made a come-back recently, although they are more common in summer than winter and that was the only sighting of this species during the trip.


In Kiberg I saw the first Glaucous gulls of the trip and of my life, although they were far away and difficult to identify certainly as Glaucous rather than Iceland gulls, which are also found here, but in smaller numbers. I also saw other species I had seen earlier in Vadso such as Common and Steller's eiders, and a group of long-tailed ducks close to shore.
Long-tailed Duck
Continuing on to Vardo, I was surprised to find out that you had to pass through a tunnel to get to Vardo. It's a very cool experience going through the tunnel. When I arrived in the town, I started walking around Vardo harbor, much bigger than the one in Vadso. The first thing I saw was a European shag and a Glaucous gull on a small floating pier. To my surprise, the kittiwakes were already breeding and in breeding plumage. They breed on harborfront houses in Vardo, but in much smaller numbers than on the island of Hornoya, where the nesting seabirds are a true spectacle. Nevertheless, the kittiwakes were fun to watch and great photo subjects, especially when they opened their bills to reveal bright red coloring inside.
European shag and Glaucous gull 
Black-legged Kittiwakes
Black-legged Kittiwakes
Black-legged Kittiwake
Black-legged Kittiwake
Black-legged Kittiwake
Black-legged Kittiwakes
On the other side of the harbor I finally found my first King eider of the trip, a female sitting on a rock alone. I expected these to be a lot more common, and this was the only good view I ever got. At the end of the harbor I saw my first Iceland gull of the trip, easy to identify next to two Glaucous gulls. The snow was falling rapidly at this point, creating cool pictures.
King (Queen) Eider

Purple sandpipers

Gulls in order from left to right: 1st year glaucous, 2 adult glaucous, 1st year Iceland
Iceland Gull
Iceland Gull
Glaucous gulls
Glaucous gulls

Common eider raft

The last stop in Vardo was Hasselnes, a spot overlooking the island of Hornoya, a breeding ground for many seabirds. Unfortunately, the ferry does not operate operate until March. From the hide I saw King eiders, including males, Black guillemots, Common and probably Thick-billed murres, and a Gray Seal.

Black guillemot
Black guillemot
Gray seal
Iceland gull and Vardo harbor
Day 4:
The next day I had a flight to Oslo in the morning, so I had to get up early to go to Vadsoya, an island in Vadso near my hotel where there were Mountain hare according to the book. Sure enough, I saw five or six hare altogether, all fully white and blending in with the snow. I also saw a flock of Snow buntings, probably early arrivals since according to the book they migrate through in March and don't winter.
Mountain hare
Mountain hare
Mountain hare
Mountain hares
Mountain hares
Overall, the trip was very successful, and I hope to visit Varanger again.